In support of the VCH Essex Trust and its work on Harwich [Red Book Vol XIII], Nick May, the owner and landlord of the Lambard’s Salthouse restaurant in Harwich, ran a fundraising luncheon special menu. On 7 March there was a special occasion at which the former county editor, Chris Thornton, gave a short talk on the background of Lord John Howard’s career, his relation to Harwich and the food his household bought during Howard’s stay in Lent in 1481.
John Howard (1425-1485), who started out as a minor East Anglian gentleman, became through marriage and patronage of the Yorkist kings an extremely wealthy and well-connected baron in the area. He was descended from royalty on both sides of his family and was great grandfather of Catherine Howard and Anne Boleyn and great, great grandfather of Elizabeth I. As Chris Thornton told us in his fascinating talk, Thomas Howard was a close friend and loyal supporter of Richard III (with whom he was killed at the Battle of Bosworth in 1485). Just two years before his death he was created Duke of Norfolk after the male Mowbray line of dukes had died out. Howard was actively involved at Harwich from the 1460s onwards and his household accounts contain information on the fitting out and resupply of naval vessels in the harbour. In 1466 he built both a new private quay and began the construction of a stone ‘castle’, probably in the form of a defensive tower.
But turning back to the presence, a packed house of diners was regaled with a delicious 6-course menu, using ingredients available in Lent in the later 15th century, inspired by the inventory of the larder of John Howard. On the menu was mainly seafood (e.g., oysters, herring, cod, lobster) with a few ‘allowances’ of luxuries like butter and different wines to the different courses! It was not only the food that was outstanding. The attention to detail with sealed menu cards and little letters of indulgence, pardoning the diners from eating and drinking things which should not be consumed during Lent.
At intervals between the courses, Nick appeared from the kitchen to tell us about the next course and its ingredients and historic significance. He was obviously passionate about the food and getting everything just right. I think everyone there would agree that this was a truly magical – and delicious – experience, a feast for the senses.
Ken Crowe and Herbert Eiden
Victoria County History of Essex 